Eleven Madison Park Round 2

*Spoiler alert. I do not recommend reading if you've never been to EMP and you are planning to go.

I came back again within less than 6 months for my mother's birthday. I didn't expect to come so soon. Luckily the menu changes every 3 months and I was able to experience a whole new set of flavors. I came at an interesting time, right before dining at EMP, I had read on NYtimes that they would be changing the menu to roughly 8 courses with slightly larger portions and upping the price to $295 from $225 to include service charge. I am not sure how I feel about a 31% tip. Don't get me wrong, the service at EMP is solid but I don't ever recall in my life any service that is 31% worth. The one thing that really bothered me was that they had already upped the price before changing to the new structure. In fact, that kind of pissed me the fuck off. The article on the NYtimes specifically said that the price increase was as a result of a new structural change. I was really expecting something new since my last visit, not just revised dishes in the same format. Don't get me wrong the food is very very good, but why am I paying a significant premium for the same thing?

Service

Overall, the service was decent. I liked that they e-mailed you beforehand to introduce themselves and inquire about dietary issues and special requests. However, I felt the service was not as genuine as my experiences at some of its peers such as Hisbiscus in London. The friendliness from a few felt forced but definitely an improvement from when I visited in July. This time they really made the effort to remember my mother's birthday and greet with more warmth and friendliness. But it just didn't feel genuine. At times it almost came off a little condescending? Is that weird to say?

The kitchen tour at the end was very special. It was the highlight that brought the whole experience home. They prepared a quick dessert in the kitchen, a maple syrup popsicle—it was my favorite dessert actually, so simple yet delicious and refreshing. 

Sturgeon sabayon with chive

Food

The food, obviously, was of its highest caliber with the freshest ingredients. You can tell that each dish had so much thought and care put in. Each dish is truly a piece of art. A few of my favorite dishes include the Sturgeon, Oyster, Caviar Benedict, Botrytis dessert and the maple syrup popsicle in the kitchen. 

1) Sturgeon sabayon with chive - The flavor pairing was very unique and tasty. I enjoyed the gentle saltiness complemented by the creaminess. 

2) Oyster pie with veloute - The oyster was very fresh and apparently harvested that day. The oyster melts in your mouth while the tart crumbles in your mouth. The soup pairing was delicious and went really well with the oyster pie. Alternating between a bite of the oyster and a sip of the veloute was just an awesome idea.

3) Caviar Benedict - I had the same dish back in July 2015, however, this time they changed the flavors slightly but I still really enjoyed it. It's definitely a classic dish and one of my favorites. The presentation was on point.  It's not only tasty but also fun to eat. 

4) Waldorf salad - The preparation of the waldorf salad was fun to watch, but in terms of flavors, it was nothing special. It wasn't a very worthy dish in my opinion. I thought the carrot tartare that I had last time was much more visually appealing and intriguing. The soup hidden at the bottom definitely made up for the underwhelming salad. 

5) Botrytis - Ice cream with bitter almond and ginger crumble paired with deliciously sweet riesling. I normally don't drink sweet wine, but this one paired exceptionally well with the ice cream. I loved the little spoon that held the wine. This alternation between the liquid and dessert was a theme I really enjoyed throughout the meal. 

Oyster pie and veloute

Unfortunately they still served that dumbass guess the milk game. It's the fact that they didn't personally make the chocolate that bothers me. I can buy Mast chocolates at the grocery store. They should change the game and incorporate some house made dessert and not cop out with outsourcing. A great idea would be to bring the maple syrup popsicle into a potential course and not just a special treat for kitchen tours. Maybe guess the maple syrup and which tree it came from would be slightly more innovative. There also should be some incentive for winning the game. By adding a little treat / prize would really make the overall experience even more worthwhile. 

Despite my few concerns and criticisms I definitely recommend coming here at least once. It's not just the food but the overall culinary experience. 

Price

$295 per person including gratuity, excludes tax

Reservation

1 month in advance

Scallops with black truffle and leeks

Caviar benedict with eggs, cauliflower and ham

Foie gras

Lobster with poached butternut squash and chestnuts

Hen of the woods mushroom with roasted horseradish

Cato corner cheese fondue with squash and mustard

Milk and honey custard with bee pollen ice cream

Waldorf salad

Venison roasted with beets and onion

Ice cream with bitter almond and ginger crumble paired with Reisling